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   This here is nightmare wire.  It is some knob and tube with thermoplastic-sheathed cable (TPS) spliced in.  What they were trying to do was have a switched outlet.  The light in this room didn't have a box.  Rather than take the time to do this right, put in a box, and make the connect there, they simply stripped the cloth covered knob-and-tube wire and wrapped in the TPS.  The knob-and-tube wire is steel and the TPS copper.  Generally one should avoid connecting metals of different types due to differing expansion rates.  The connection could loosen over time, increasing resistance and causing a fire hazard.  In addition, junctions should always be in a box.  There is nothing legitimate about this splice and I'm glad it is no longer connected.
   At some point, I will have to fix that outlet.  I should be able to use the existing wire to pull new wire to the box, and then I can connect that wire to a power source.  For now that outlet is disconnected.
  Here is a closeup on the window frame I build.  There is a 4" bolt that sticks out which allows the window cover to be tightly fastened to the window frame.  The caulk is still drying in this image, but after it was done I added a layer of weather gasket.  So when the window cover is in place, tightening the bolt allows the window frame to make a seal.  Hoping that keeps out the draft when it gets cold the next of next month.
   The window insert was made out of some very poor quality wood.  Since I wanted a tight seal around the window, I needed to replace this.  So here is the old piece of wood, and the new piece I made out of some leftover 2x4."  Took about 5 minutes on the table saw.
   Shortly before the election we started getting political ads.  Since everyone here had already voted we figured the only reason they would be sending us such things was so we could colour on them.  It was nice of both campaigns to let us play sharpie dress-up.
   Now that the west wall has the first layer of insulation complete, I have installed the 2x4 studs on which I will hang the actual wall.  I am using 24" spacing with the 2x4" position length-wise.  A 2x4 is actually 1.5" by 3.5".  The 1.5" is exactly the thickness of the insulation I am using.  So I will be able fill the spaces between the studs with more insulation.
   The studs are partly fastened to the wall using a concrete screw.  However, of the 6 screws I have used, one didn't seem to dig in.  So I don't trust them much.  The studs are braced on the top using a small length of 2x4 coming off the first rafter.  I found metal bracket to hold the 2x4 at a 90 degree angle to the joists.  They are also fastened at the bottom.
   This is a small project I've started in order to seal up the basement window.  When we moved in, this window had a second removable window over top of it, much like a storm window.  It would be useful if it wasn't so drafty, and in the past when I installed this window I would often tape the edges to cut down on the draft. 
   My new project sets out to solve this problem.  Pictured is a frame I build inside the window area.  It is caulked into place and has two bolts sticking out.  These bolts will allow the inner window to fit snugly against the window frame.  I plan to line the window area with weather stripping.  Then when the inner window is installed, wingnuts will press fit the window into the frame and should seal the window of any drafts in the winter.